The realization that soon the vacation was about to end slowly dawned on me. I guess that was one of the reasons I had been feeling listless. Yet at the same time there was that desire to return to the usual rhythm of work and prayer I was used to back in Singapore.
We took the shinkansen from Kanazawa to Hida-Takayama a town in the midst of the Japanese Alps. We wanted to visit its old town and its morning market. We would stay overnight there, and then leave for one last evening in Nagoya before flying back to Singapore.
By now I have gotten used to the lack of trash bins in Japanese streets. As a Singaporean I am so used to having bins at hand in many places. It was frustrating from day one when I found the opposite to be so in Japan. I learned that everyone is expected to be responsible for their own trash. I had to keep mine in my pocket or backpack until I could find one in the shopping mall toilet or somewhere else. Most times it ended up in the trash bin in my hotel room at the end of the day.
We walked a short distance from the station to the Miyagawa morning market by a river. It was a picturesque street market about 1 km in length with shop houses on one side and temporary stalls on the other side. Behind the market were other streets that preserved the old town from another era.
We later traced our steps back and ate Hida beef at a popular Michelin restaurant. Waiting was a hassle but the beef was so tender and juicy that we were fully satisfied. We returned to the tourist area and spent an hour or so exploring other parts of the souvenir shopping belt. I was feeling tired and listless and rested at tiny café with a table and chairs outside. There I sat and observed people and traffic pass me by until I got bored and took out my Kindle and read. Later we got together again and sauntered along a street with san machi old houses on both sides till we reached a temple. I was ready to retire for the day and from the heavy steps of others I knew others felt the same way too.
Sunday & Monday, 6 & 7 November 2016
The Country Hotel Takayama was conveniently located opposite the station but the service and the rooms were average for that price (4,200 yen). Takayama is a popular tourist area and since we were out most of the day it made sense not to pay more for a better hotel. In fact, the hotel in Dormy Inn Nagoya that we had booked would cost 45 yen more but had much better rooms and service. It even had free onsen and ramen in the late evening for its guests.
The next morning we took the shuttle to Nagoya airport where some spent their remaining yen on more snacks and souvenirs before departure. There was even a special sale on for Hida beef. In the plane, I caught up some movies and took a nap when I could. The flight was pleasant. As I recalled the whole tour I cannot help but give thanks to God for his presence with us in all the many high points of spectacular views, cultural insights, great reasonably priced food, and God incidents. Japan is a lovely, safe and sad place to visit. Sad because I do feel for the cultured well-mannered Japanese people and the emptiness and hollowness of their souls. Lord, have mercy on the Japanese people and pour out your Spirit upon them as You have promised through your prophets. Help Your workers in this forlorn harvest experience breakthroughs in fruitfulness.
The grandeur and beauty of the Japanese Alpine route is impressive. I supposed any other scenery from hence would be an anticlimax. From Tateyama we went to visit the nearby Kurobe Gorge still in the northern part of the Japanese Alps. There is a railway that operates along the scenic gorge area in Toyama Prefecture. This railway used to serve the construction of the Kurobe Dam but now it brought tourists like me to take a one and a half hours’ train ride through forested ravines with steep cliffs, scores of bridges and tunnels.
We sat in the open-sided car. It was cheaper but colder. The ride to the terminal Keyakidaira Station was interesting. We got off and walked down to the river and explored the area. Later I felt tired and bored as I anticipated the predictable return trip on the same route. When the day was over, with great relief, I soaked myself in the bathtub of the Grand Terrace Hotel in Toyama. I love these petite bathtubs. Every hotel we have been has one. Not the inns or guesthouses, but the hotels. My custom is to fill it and soak in it to mull over the day with thanksgiving.
I am quite excited about the next day: we visit an auction at a fishing port, and probably indulge in super fresh seafood at reasonable prices. I drooled as I contemplated that in the bathtub. Just kidding.
Tuesday, 1 November 2016:
The breakfast buffet spread catered to Japanese and Western taste buds. I felt great relief that I could have a slow and laid back breakfast, and that we would be anchored in this hotel for three days and three nights. Unlike the biblical Jonah’s experience in the whale’s belly hotel, ours would not be queasy.
From Toyama we set off for Takaoka, and from there to the Shinminato Fishery at Imizu city. The slight drizzle did not dampen our mood. The aim was to watch a crab auction at the fishery. The unspoken bigger aim was to devour as much fresh crab and shashimi as our stomachs allowed. We were not disappointed. Except we wished we had bigger appetites and stomachs.
We next intended to visit a zen temple. We braved cold and drizzle but at the temple entrance we discovered none were interested to go in. A group photo outside would do! Our enthusiasm petered out over the afternoon until, like all other Singaporeans, we entered the Aeon Shopping Mall, when everyone suddenly and miraculously seemed to be re-charged. They darted and zipped around like toys with newly inserted Duracell batteries . My wife and I had birthdays in late November so we decided to skip surprises and be pragmatic: I chose a blue shoulder sling bag, and she chose a red travel bag for our birthdays. Double happiness. I have grown to admire Japanese design and quality values, and some of their stuff cost less over there.
The hour was late and we rode the speed rail back to Toyama. It cost us a hand. We had no choice. A damp but most satisfying day, I thought, as I sank into another soak that night. The next day would be alluring: an UNESCO World Heritage site.
We packed our backpack for a night’s stay in the Tateyama Hotel. Our main luggage would be forwarded to Toyama by takkyubin, a delivery service. We did not want to tow our bulky, heavy luggage along the Alpine route. That would be too cumbersome. We were taking several modes of transport and doing lots of walking so we travelled light.
From Matsumoto we took train to Shano Omachi and travelled by local bus up the mountain along scenic corridors with trees yellow, brown, and red from autumn’s cold. The bus brought us to Ogizawa. The view at the Kurobe Dam was stunning and stately – the mammoth grey dam structure; the mountains with their multi-colored coat; and the vast blue basin of a lake. Like excited children we scurried about, scanned all around and wowed this and wowed that and went click, click, click.
Catastrophically, I forgot to charge my Olympus Tough TG 3 battery. And the spare charged battery I had on me failed. This had to happen today? A similar thing had happened to me before but my memory is vague about what exactly happened years ago. So now I had to rely on my LG 3 phone camera, which under sunlight showed a black screen. I had to depend on others’ smartphone for pictures. “Hey can take a picture of me and my wife?” I comforted myself, “Well, learn to be fully present and enjoy what you see with your eyes, what you feel, and what you breathe, and what you hear with your ears”. This has always been the problem with taking photos for me. I became so absorbed taking pictures for future viewing that I forgot to bask and enjoy the present.
The group suddenly dashed towards the cable car station that seemed to be built into the mountain, and my wife and I followed suit. We have to hurry to buy tickets to cruise the beautiful, blue lake. Tickets do get sold out so we rushed there. I notice that whenever we had to bolt here and there, it was because of some form of transport, some schedule we were trying to keep. The Japanese trains and buses were punctual to the millisecond. Thank God we managed to get the tickets. And then it was another scurry down to the boat so that we do not miss the cruise.
The ferry boat was not large but it was comfortable enough. It brought us around the lake and while the breeze brushed your skin with cold air, the surrounding slopes warmed us with their golden, brown and yellow leaves. I like boat rides like these. Short ones. Not those 4 or 5 days’ cruise. Those that bring you from one place to another like a river taxi in Brisbane. Or those that give you a glimpse of river culture like the one in Bangkok or in Ho Chi Minh City. I also remember the one under the blessing of a donor to AGST Alliance students, where we got to enjoy an evening meal, as we cruised around some part of the Chao Phraya River.
Later we climbed like a million steps to a huge viewing deck of the Kurobedam Resthouse. Here we have panoramic views of the dam and surrounding mountains. The people look like brisk colorful ants on the roads, pavements and bridge. Good things end too quickly and we went from there to take the Kurobe cable car that reminded me of the one that brings you up to Victoria Peak. We went from one form of transport to another. I cannot now remember which we took, but it seems to me that after the cable car, we took a ropeway cable car, and then a bus to Murodo. Or something like that. One thing for sure, I am not good at remembering details like these. It is as though I deliberately delete such details from my memory as I do not see any future value in remembering them.
When we reached the Murodo Station we were hungry and a little mean. Mean and hungry. The Japanese are great at minimizing manpower by automation. So instead of a friendly cashier, we stared at a machine with photographs of bowls of ramen of different kinds. You put in the money and you press the button and out comes a piece of paper. You bring the paper to the cooks behind a counter and in a minute you get your steaming bowl of ramen, find a seat, and noisily slurp it all in and bellow oishi. I found it is useful to have a wife. You leave it to her and she figures out the complicated stuff about which button to press, and which is the money slot, so that all you do is eat what she ordered, and complain about why she ordered that. Ha, ha Martin Buber calls this an I-It relationship. He who finds a wife finds a good thing and obtains favor from the Lord.
I liked the hotel. It was dated but quite spacious. There was only a short time to rest before a guided tour around the Murodo Plateau (2,450m above sea level). The sight of the Tateyama Mountain Range from there was spectacular, they said. Again how I wished I had my Olympus camera instead of my LG smartphone. I kicked myself again. The tour was all in Japanese. There was a large crowd of hotel guests. Stop talking and let’s go, I said to the guide in my mind. I didn’t understand a word. Once I felt safe and surveyed the route, I broke free and wandered off. We missed his commentary. Probably about how the mountains came about, what happened thousands of years ago, what kind of rocks we were standing on, and the kind of fauna and flora. On the other hand, maybe it was good I didn’t understand Japanese. It allowed me to drift off without feeling any guilt.
Walking around the lake we spotted a rare glimpse of the Alpine ptarmigan which people may get to see sometimes between late May to June. It is referred to as “messenger of God” and it brings happiness to those who see them. We believe God gives “happiness” but we were happy just to be able to see and photograph it in November.
Then there was this fantastic dinner for which we paid a small fortune, perhaps 3% of Singapore’s GDP. It was worth every cent. It was a meal you only watched on TV and wondered if you would ever be the person inside the TV eating that very mouth-watering, lip-smacking oishi meal. The meal came with a live commentator, a Thai foreign talent who spoke good English and Japanese as well. He explained what we were eating. When the meal was over we had to be rolled back to our rooms.
That night we also went for a slide show which was again in Japanese. One day they would need to have a Chinese interpreter, because so many more tourists come to Japan from China. That would not have made a difference to me because my Mandarin is only slightly better than my Japanese. My Japanese vocabulary is limited to harikatogozaimas, Suzuki, Yamaha, Toyota, Sony, Hitachi, Mitsubishi and oishi. My Mandarin is just a fraction better. So I dozed off during the presentation. I was strategically seated behind to do this. In addition, the lights were all off during the slide show. I think I saw some blurred spots of light and heard a droning voice that went weaker and weaker like a distant undertone. I was more interested in what came after that: stargazing.
We went up to the rooftop of the hotel and there we had before us a cosmic blackest of black blanket hung up in the sky with bright dots of different sizes forming patterns and lines that clearly indicate that there is a Creator up there who loves putting up Christmas lights for people to enjoy when they were down, and find their way when they got lost. Having my camera here would make no difference. I did not kick myself this time. I wondered what kind of professional SLR camera would be needed to take great pictures of the night sky. I think $10,000 cameras. Or even more costly ones. It was so cold nobody stayed there for too long. I lasted a good ten minutes I think. “Good night stars in the sky. Good night God. This was such a great day”.