When we discovered that Joy lost her bicycle key we were like Oh dear, what do we do now?
It had been a fun morning. From Matsumoto we went to Hokata train station in Azumino. On arrival we searched for the bicycle rental shop near the station and rented the bicycles. Some had not cycled for some years so we rode slowly on the pedestrian pavement till all were more comfortable. We cycled about 2 km to the famous old wasabi farm. From the small town’s quiet pavements through the country roads to the farm. It was a cloudy and cool day, lovely for cycling in the country. It felt like I was in some Japanese movie where I cycled through rice fields, country homes and gentle slopes.
The wasabi farm was stunning, extensive and interesting. We walked back and forth and all around the farm. It was a well-developed tourist destination with several food stalls and two shops that sold all kinds of wasabi products, souvenirs and other products. We all tried the wasabi ice cream, yes, ice cream. Thankfully it tasted mild, more sweet than wasabi. Then the drama began.
Joy could not find her bicycle key. She checked and checked and concluded that she must have dropped it in the farm – the size of which is several football pitches. How are we to find a lost key? Some were lost in thoughts, some gave suggestions, some prayed quietly. She headed to the reception and asked. Miracles of miracles the lady took out a key and asked, Is this the key? Yes! What are the odds of the key being picked up and returned to the counter before Joy asked for it? Zero, in my opinion. Everyone, like us, would be taking in the sights, taking photos. Who would be looking at the ground? We cycled back with great joy. We marveled at God’s faithfulness and goodness.
Our joy was so great nothing could dampen it. Not even an hour of searching for a restaurant to have lunch in. We ended in a wild goose chase that finally landed us in a large supermarket eating cup noodles and sandwiches and bento sets. We took all that walking in good spirit. After all we were hikers and a positive spin on this would be to take this as an urban hike.
Soon we were off in cabs to an apple orchard to what else but pick apples for a fee. Another disappointment? As it turned out we experienced the kindness of the young lady who ran the orchard. After we picked apples and took photos, it got very cold and windy. The young lady phoned but could only secure two cabs, and worried for us, she personally drove the last group back to town. Such kindness. Another wonderful act that showed that God was present with us even in our vacation. God bothers about the small stuff too.
Back at Matsumoto, except for me and Tan, everyone else took a 30 minutes bus ride to a free onsen linked to the Ace Inn hotel. They had a wonderful experience and the onsen was fabulous like the ones you see featured in Japan Hour. As for Tan and myself, we went shopping for some clothes in GU, a cheaper version of Uniqlo. That night it hit me that 90% of the shops catered to women.
The original plan was for an hour and a half hike but this was cancelled. This turned out to be a providential decision as Tan was walking with pain in his leg, and the whole day was wet, wet, wet. If we had hiked, it could have been a showery muddy trudge. This was a sign of God’s care.
From Hanaya inn we rode cabs to Nagiso Station where they rushed back and forth to see a 200 years old bridge while I had coffee in a souvenir shop opposite the station. Then we took a train to Narai, an Edo period post town in Shiojiri city, Nagano Prefecture. We had an hour or so to explore this old town that was about one kilometer of old houses and temples on both sides of a street. Most shops were selling food or lacquer souvenirs. It drizzled intermittently and I had to use a raincoat. This was where we missed a meal in order not to miss the train. Six of us found a restaurant and ordered our food but unknown to us there were many patrons waiting for their orders ahead of us. When we realized we would be late if we had waited any longer, we cancelled our order and rushed off. Good thing the restaurant allowed it. It was at Shiojiri train station that we finally had our belated lunch.
The next activity was to go to a vineyard and pluck grapes for a fee. Right in the city! Took a cab there. There was a store next to a greenhouse. The grapes we sampled were superbly large, round and sweet. And expensive. I thought this was what we came to pluck but it was not to be. They brought the women out to where they plucked grapes that were small, green, ripened, and not as sweet nor as crunchy as the samples we had tried. Was this a bait and switch strategy? I don’t know. Anyway the women came back with few branches of grapes. Smart girls. We bought some apples, grabbed a cab to the train station and went to Matsumoto, where we would be re-united with our luggage at Ace Inn. It was an eventful day but one I would rather laugh away or forget. For me a hearty dinner and a good sleep helped me forget the day’s misadventures.
Thursday, 27th October. We began early. One hotel staff measured the sizes of the luggage (charges were by luggage size, not weight) that the takkyubin company would forward to the Ace Inn Hotel in Matsumoto. We would arrive at that hotel the day after our hike. We would only carry a fresh set of clothes for the next day’s hike in our backpack. Cap, sunblock, camera, clothings and jacket, umbrella, torch, raincoat, phone and camera chargers, extra socks and underwear. Packing should be easy but the unknown factors made it a chore burdened by small decisions, “Should I bring this sweater or the fleece? Will I really need this penknife? What if ….?” We determined to travel light but somehow we packed too much stuff.
The journey was about two hours by train and then by bus to Magome. We saw older men and women in hiking gear, hat and backpacks in the train, in the bus, along the trail. During the vacation, we saw old people touring. Old people working outside their homes. Old people sauntering. Japanese people. Old people in the markets, the shopping mall, the streets, the restaurants. Old people making music. None were cleaners. Japan has aged quite well.
Magome is a picturesque post town that served the route between Tokyo and Kyoto during the Edo era. The quaint exterior of the houses and shops that lined the main street had an understated dignity of a grey haired elder. We had a leisurely walk up well-paved streets lined on both sides with souvenir shops, snack stalls, and old world feel. We snacked in the cool fresh mountain air. We one-two-three clicked clicked along the way. The sun was overhead and the harsh light played havoc on our photos. We were noisy. We looked the part. We had gotten into the carefree spirit of vacation. It was late morning and the hike had not begun until we reached the edge of tourism. Suddenly, our hike picked up energy to make up for lost time. As we plodded upward, we saw less shops but more homes of townsfolk spaced out along the trail.
It was a walk in the park: eight kilometres with some slopes. About three over hours through the beautiful forest, with some autumn foliage, gurgling streams and crisp fresh air. We enjoyed the moderate hike for the sheer beauty of the scenery, the cool autumn air, the light workout it gave us, and the friendships it strengthened. As we walked along we found ourselves talking with different ones and updated on what went on in each other’s life.
We arrived at the outskirts of Tsumago, another post town, and looked for the Hanaya, a traditional Japanese inn whose foundations were laid in the 17th Century. The décor was traditional Japanese with tatami-matted rooms with no attached bathrooms. Bathing and toilet facilities were shared in common – a distinct discomfort for all of us, but one we could manage since it was only for a night. The rooms were spacious but you had to lay out your own bedding and blankets. There were yukatas, the casual kimonos, and we decided to wear them later for the special sumptuous dinner that night. After checking in we quickly met outside to look for food at nearby Tsumago, another post town. A Japanese hiker pointed us in the wrong direction, so it was about 3pm by the time we walloped our soba in Tsumago.
We got to see more of the countryside and back at the inn we took our bath, rested a while, put on our yukatas and were slightly late for a lovely, delicious Japanese meal. Besides us there were several angmohs at tables nearby. Lots of laughter, banter, photos, and many many oishis later we were sated and heavily seated.
We clumsily got up after dinner and took many many one-two-three click clicks and ended chatting in the lounge area. I cannot remember what we talked and laughed about. It’s one of those light hearted rounds that went nowhere.
The inn had communal baths but I was not sure if anybody used them. I did not. The onsen looked like a 10 feet by 8 feet rectangular bathtub with steaming water. I had an early night – a cold night. The next day there would have been a short hike ….. a hike that we would thankfully cancel for reasons that I cannot recall. Thankful, not because we could laze around. I like hiking. But because it would rain the next day, and we were spared a cold, wet, muddy trudge through the forest. Thank you Lord.